Balljoint Delete Systems Ford F250/350 Dana 60 Install Instructions (Press Fit)

  1. Beginning with a clean, bare outer knuckle you will begin with pressing in the lower cup assembly. It will be inserted from the top and pressed downward as pictured below. Leave the seal and shim in assembly as pictured to avoid debris entering joint during install. You may add the external C-clip to the bottom of this assembly now or wait until later.

 

  1. Repeat this process for the upper cup, pressing from the same direction as pictured below. Leave seal and shim in assembly as done previously. The shoulder will stop the progression of each assembly. Press on tops of cups only, not the bearings.


  2. Now you may remove the seal and shim to pack tops of each joint with grease. The joints are lubricated with Tri-Flow when assembled, the grease only acts as a moisture barrier. Re-assemble as progression below:

 

  1. Now that both assemblies are pressed in and ready to go it’s time to put the 1-piece lower stud into the inner C. Insert stud as shown below on the left and apply blue Loctite to the top threads. Holding the stud in place utilizing a hex socket in the hex pocket you will torque the upper 7/8” nylock using a 1 ¼” socket to 100ft/lbs. This will fully seat the lower stud. (DO NOT SPIN THE STUD IN THE TAPER TO TIGHTEN).

 

  1. Trim the flat on the 7075 alignment bushing to your settings using the charts below using a flapwheel. The “start position” will ALWAYS be with the slot facing the flat on the inner C and will be positioned towards negative camber in the selected bushing degree. This keeps everyone starting from the identical starting point. To achieve settings listed the driver's side will be rotated clockwise and passenger side rotated counter-clockwise.

3 DEGREE SETS

Camber (for 3* sets)

Caster (for 3* sets)

Degree of Rotation

-3*

0*

0* (start position)

-2*

+1*

30*

-1.5*

+1.5*

45*

-1*

+2*

60*

-.5*

+2.5*

75*

-.25*

+2.75*

82.5*

0*

+3*

90*

       Notes here:

 

 

**Above table is based on a 3 degree bushing set. For every 15* of rotation, there will be .5* of change. Adding to one subtracts from the other due to the hole offset. (Hint: you will always have a combined number adding up to 3). The 3 degree bushings are ideal for offroad-only rigs in order to decrease scrub radius when set to -3 degrees camber OR for everyday rigs running 6” or more of lift in order to increase the positive caster lost when lifting. To measure total caster you will add the caster found at the inner C (For example +4 degrees) to the caster added outside of the C to the outer knuckle (for example +3 degrees- making the total caster +7 degrees).

 

1.5 DEGREE SETS

Camber (for 1.5* sets)

Caster (for 1.5* sets)

Degree of Rotation

-1.5

0*

0* (start position)

-.75*

+.75*

45*

-.5*

+1*

75*

-.25*

+1.25*

82.5*

0*

+1.5*

90*

Notes here:

 

 

 

**Above table is based on a 1.5 degree bushing set. For every 15* of rotation there will be .25* of change. Adding to one subtracts from the other due to the hole offset, but with less overall change due to a less drastic offset. The 1.5 degree bushings are ideal for rigs with 2-4” lift or everyday Jeeps running the Ford D60. The same principle applies to these as above.

 

As for how the bushing is to be trimmed see pic below. Notice the very small gap between the bushing and the flat- it should be this small at a minimum and the width of a credit card at a maximum. This will allow expansion of the bushing as preload is applied.

*0 degree bushing pictured

  1. Putting the outer knuckle on the inner C: Slide the outer knuckle onto the lower stud and support it (bottom left). Be sure not to lose or forget the small metal shim on the bottom of the assembly to help seal it, apply blue Loctite to the lower threads, and then secure the ¾” nylock on the bottom starting with 60ft/lbs using a 1 1/16” socket. You can now add the external C-clip to the bottom of the lower cup if not completed already while on the bench (bottom right, grey arrow).

    You can come back to the lower nylock later to dial in steering firmness if desired by increasing torque in 5 lb increments.

 

  1. Now you can move to the upper joint. Line up the bore of the 7075 adjustment bushing with the joint directly below it and insert the upper bolt through the assembly. You can use a ¾” hex rod or a ¾” hex socket to keep the bolt from rotating while you tighten the 7/8” nylock on the bottom of the upper assembly. (Use blue Loctite prior to torquing). Double check to be sure the short spacer is in the bottom of the upper assembly (it must be used to keep the nylock from dragging on the bottom of the assembly.)

 

  1. Rotate the knuckle assembly feeling for excessive stiffness. The knuckle should be able to be rotated with one hand on the front steering arm, with moderate firmness noted. This can be adjusted by increasing the torque on the ¾” nut on the bottom of the lower assembly. Do this in 5ft/lb increments.

Tips & Tricks:

  1. Put assemblies in freezer for at least 1 hour (complete so you know where all the parts go). This will make pressing the assemblies in slightly easier.
  2. DO NOT press joints in by applying force to the bearings- press on the top of the cups only! Ruined bearings will not be replaced under warranty.
  3. If you have any questions please view the FAQ here: (Fequently Asked Questions – American Iron Offroad) before contacting Ai, most answers are contained in that FAQ.